Vintage 1952-3 Lutterloh

So anyone who knows me knows, I’m a sucker for vintage patterns. And unique vintage  patterns? Yeah, I’ll totally do vile things to get my hands on really good ones. There’s a reason DGD has a nice rep as a carrier of great vintage patterns. Because I know what people want, because it’s what I want in a vintage pattern.

Having said that, Lutterloh has been around since the 30’s so they have some great patterns. I recently spent a disgusting amount of money on #47 from 1952-3. For such a thin booklet, it’s a pricey little beast.

So me being me, I picked of course the most unusual pattern in the book, panties. I measure my hips (if you look up Lutterloh to see how it works, you will discover that it uses only the hip and bust to make the pattern) and stuck some newspaper together. I didn’t want to waste pattern trace. It’s not cheap and newspaper is.

Now, Lutterloh are done at 1/4″ scale, and the idea is, you use a special ruler and you connect the dots you make on your paper. I did all this, got confused 4X and developed a migraine. Finally, using my lucky orange Sharpie, I got the pattern to work. I think. It looks really big, although I admit, I’m a really big girl. I may draft another pattern in a smaller size just to see the result. But I refuse to use pattern trace until I’ve got this down. Anyhow, on to what I did.


OK, so first things first. I don’t own a printer, so I traced this with vellum. I’ve always traced my patterns so this was no biggie. So I know the pattern is accurate. I’m using the one marked “16” and if you look, the cross is outside of the pattern.


Not bragging or nothing, well, yes, I am, but boy, I trace good don’t I??


My taped up newspaper and my supplies, when I finally made the pattern, I moved my board and pattern more in the center of the newspaper.


The finished pattern. Which, I say is HUGE, but I honestly think it’s my ass that’s huge and not the fault of the pattern. It also isn’t EXACTLY like the pattern, so I need to do this again and again until I get it right. I think part of the issue was, with the other patterns, you pretty much are all in one spot, this panty pattern was all over the place, I had the tape at a couple times stretched out to the side nearly level with the pattern!! (and feel free to be amused that the banana ad is right in the crotch, I was)

Now as for putting the undies together, well, not yet, I don’t have any fabric. I’m 100% sure you cut two fabric and then join it together, and I’m also 100% sure that the lines indicate boning channels. I’m also fairly sure that these are done with a non stretch fabric, since this was 1952-53 and they didn’t have all the Lycra we have today. I think that the “squiggly” lines indicate you should use a rubberized fabric or puckered cotton so that it has some stretch. I may try this in power knit however.

I might have figured one issue out. If I’m understanding this correctly, with the Lutterloh tape, my arrows point to the left. I assume this means my dots should go on the left of the tape, which, mine didn’t, I did them all on the right. Also, can someone explain the 0-7 holes on the left side to me?



Filed under Sewing

3 responses to “Vintage 1952-3 Lutterloh

  1. Cheryl

    Hello the 0-7 is probably where they line up on a tape measure. They use to give out a sampler of shirt, skirt, vest (all important) with the top ruler part and you had to line it up on a regular metric tape measure. As for the power net. Elastic has been around for a long time so it maybe a fabric of that sort. When i saw the picture of those i was sure it was some elastic fabric..

    • FJL #315

      Yes, what that link will tell you about as well, is Lastex, which is a rubberized fabric. It’s not really “elastic” tho, it’s woven from rubber and cotton or polys. “rubberized” fabric isn’t used as much anymore, it doesn’t breath great. I do feel however it gives a far more accurate look to a garment like this.

  2. Dawn

    The pattern you are using is actually 5 different parts, with A and D cut on the fold. The center piece with no letter marking but shaded is either interfaced or you could use powernet/lycra in a heavy fiber. Did you ever finish these and post a pic?

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